Dry brine overnight uncovered, 110C oven to 57C internal, rest, 90 seconds a side in a hot dry pan. Thermometer or you are guessing.
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@cure_rack_cody
Built a curing rack that holds 200 bars and is still short on space every autumn.
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Buy the biggest sack your storage will keep dry, in a metal bin, and weigh it once. Everything else is rounding. Treats are the line item that ruins the budget and the eggs at the same time.
Five months out of six years is early. You are not behind, you are in it. The checking will outlast the sadness because it is the last remaining piece of contact and you will have to end it on purpose.
Set a timer. Everyone's felt-two-minutes is about forty seconds.
Cold throw and hot throw are different problems. Judge a candle by lighting it after a fortnight, not by sniffing the jar. I have had jars that smelled of nothing cold and filled a room burning.
Pretty much. Burn one jar at day 14 and judge the batch on that.
Worth adding that a rack over a tray in the oven matters here, otherwise the underside steams and you are back to a wet surface.
Install the dev client on a real device rather than only the simulator, from day one. Half the native module bugs you are about to meet only exist on hardware, and finding that out at release time is worse.
The answer nobody enjoys is that most people who keep flocks long term do dispatch birds at some point, and they are usually quiet about it because of threads like this one. If you will not, that is a legitimate choice, but then your six bird limit is really a two bird limit for new layers, and you should plan around that rather than being surprised in two years. Decide the cap now, in writing, or the flock decides for you.
Old house, known failures, any trade can fix it. New house, unknown proprietary systems, one approved installer. Whichever you buy, budget a fund rather than hoping.
Buy a scale, it costs about the same as two bad cakes. A cup of flour weighs anywhere from roughly 120g to 155g depending on whether you spoon it in or dig the cup into the bag and pack it, which is a swing of about a quarter, and a quarter more flour is exactly what a dense cake tastes like. I weighed mine ten times to check and the spread was real. Once you weigh, the same recipe gives the same result twice, and then you can actually learn from your mistakes.
Pushing back on the just lower the request advice that always turns up in these threads. Lowering requests until it schedules is how you end up with a cluster that schedules everything and performs terribly under load, and then somebody adds limits on top and you get throttling nobody can explain. Right-size from observed usage with headroom, then fix the scheduling constraint that is actually blocking you. They are separate problems and merging them makes both worse.
Temperature is the dial and 15C roughly doubles the clock compared to a warm kitchen. At that temperature I would not bother tasting kraut before day fourteen, and I usually call it somewhere between four and six weeks. Carrots are quicker because they are cut small, so taste those at day seven. If you want a number rather than a taste, pH strips are cheap and a finished vegetable ferment normally sits comfortably under four.
I paid for one month on two of them specifically to compare, treated it as buying information for the price of two lunches, and cancelled both after.
What I learned was that the free tier of the one I liked less was much closer to its paid version than the free tier of the one I liked more. That's a product decision they've made, and you can't see it from the outside without spending the money. Worth doing once if you're choosing something you'll use daily.
Exactly. It looks perfect for an hour and then tells the truth.
You are treating the symptom. A sinkhole is the surface setting while the core is still liquid - the skin forms, the middle shrinks underneath it, and it pulls down around the wick because that is the hottest column.
Slow the whole cool down. Pour at 54 to 57C into warmed jars, cover with a box, do not move them for four hours. If you still need a top pour, do it while the surface is still soft rather than after it has fully set, with wax about 5 to 8 degrees above your pour temperature. A cold top pour onto a set candle is exactly what gives you the dip a day later, because the two layers shrink independently.
Seasoning first because it is free to practise is a genuinely good argument and not one I had thought of.
Straight from the bath into a sink of half ice and half water, weighted so the bags stay under, and left there until they are cold to the middle rather than cold on the outside. No cooling on the counter, ever - that slow window is the only part of this that is genuinely worth being fussy about. Then fridge, coldest shelf, at the back.
Also worth saying that a modern fridge handles a couple of chilled bags fine. Protecting your fridge from a small warm load at the cost of the food is a bad trade.
The baseline numbers are the single most useful thing in this thread. I started a page in the same folder and it has paid off twice.
Go up, but test properly, and fix the flame separately because it is a different signal.
A CD10 in a 7cm jar at 8 percent fragrance is under-wicked. Fragrance oil raises the effective melt point and a heavily scented soy needs more heat than the wick chart implies - the charts assume unscented wax and nobody makes unscented candles. I would burn CD12 and CD14 side by side rather than stepping up one at a time.
The 2cm flickering flame is separate. Tall and dancing usually means the wick is too long, not too big. Trim to 5mm before every burn including the first. A long wick burns tall, sooty and hot at the top while still not throwing heat outward, which is precisely the picture you have.
One more thing: three and a half hours should have reached the glass. Once a memory ring is set that jar will tunnel forever. Do your testing on fresh pours, not on that one.
Five millimetres every single burn, and let burn one go the full distance to the glass. Those two habits fix more candles than wick changes do.
A box over the batch is easy enough. Do you preheat with a heat gun or the oven?
Worth adding that the blend also needs a different wick size, so it is not a drop-in swap mid-season.
Blend, if strangers are paying money for them. Straight soy at 8 percent in a room that swings four degrees will give you frosting, wet spots and uneven tops, and you will spend more time fixing surfaces than making candles.
At gift scale for yourself, straight soy is fine and the price difference is real. The line for me is whether somebody is buying the look.