Mo

Start a folder, physical or otherwise, and put every certificate, receipt, manual and photo of an open wall in it. Five years from now when someone asks what is behind that plasterboard, you will be very glad of the photo.

The key lives in your own user hive, which is what makes it low risk - nothing machine-wide changes and other accounts on the same PC are unaffected.

Apply, in a normal command prompt:

reg add "HKCU\Software\Classes\CLSID\{86ca1aa0-34aa-4e8b-a509-50c905bae2a2}\InprocServer32" /f /ve

That creates the CLSID key with an InprocServer32 subkey whose (Default) value is present but empty. The empty value is the entire trick: if (Default) is simply unset rather than set-to-empty, nothing happens and you'll swear the key doesn't work.

Then restart the shell so it re-reads:

taskkill /f /im explorer.exe
start explorer

Revert:

reg delete "HKCU\Software\Classes\CLSID\{86ca1aa0-34aa-4e8b-a509-50c905bae2a2}" /f

…and restart Explorer again. Two commands each way, both per-user, both phone-friendly.

This is the correct caveat and I should have led with it. Averaging works as a plan and fails as an excuse, and the log is the only thing that tells you which one you are doing.

Mine was five months and one week, roughly 190 applications, eleven screens, four onsites, two offers. The changes that mattered came in month three when I stopped counting applications and started counting conversations, because 190 applications produced eleven screens and four conversations with humans I already knew produced three of my four onsites. If I did it again I would spend month one entirely on people and month two on applications, in that order.

Did this. Month 8 is about triple month 4, and roughly two thirds of it comes from repeat customers of one product. That reframes things a lot.

Agreed. Worth doing the wrist mobility work at the desk mid-afternoon rather than only before training.

This. The status question is real, and the thing that actually bites people is that a single client at 100% is a job you can be fired from without any of the benefits of a job.

Practical trick: bounce the mix and listen to it the next morning on your phone before you open the session. If you open the DAW first you'll start fiddling based on what you see rather than what you hear.

The GPU out thing is not optional advice, it is the whole tip. Mine sagged in transit and cracked the PCIe slot latch. Cheap lesson, but avoidable.

No balcony, shared landing, and an alarm in the hallway. That probably settles it before the money question even comes up.

So the popper is the actual answer and the drum is a hobby purchase. That is roughly what I suspected and did not want to hear.

Interim crutch while you sort the room: check your mixes on a single small speaker in mono at low volume, and reference against two commercial tracks you know well in the same session. Cheap, immediate, and it catches the boomy thing before you export.

Electronics repair background, so here is the boring accurate version. Electrostatic discharge damage is real, and it is usually latent rather than instant, meaning the part works and then dies weeks later, which is exactly why nobody in these threads ever connects the two events. The mitigation is cheap though: plug the PSU into the wall with its switch off so the chassis is earthed, touch bare metal on the case before you handle anything, and don't shuffle about in wool socks between touching the case and touching a board. A strap clipped to the case does the same job with less discipline required and costs about as much as a coffee.

I have paid at three points on that scale over about a decade. The cheapest was a lovely person teaching children, and everything I asked outside the exam syllabus got a vague answer. The middle was the best value by miles: an active performer who taught adults deliberately and had actual opinions about how to practise. The most expensive was a genuinely brilliant player who was not a very good teacher, which is a combination that exists more often than people admit. Price correlates with playing ability far more than with teaching ability, and only one of those is the thing you are buying.

Two smaller levers once the temperature is sorted. Swap 20% of each feed to whole rye or wholemeal - the bran carries minerals and enzyme activity that plain white flour has had removed, and it perks most sluggish starters up within a few feeds. On water: chlorine gasses off if you leave it standing, but chloramine, which many suppliers now use instead, doesn't, so if you're suspicious use filtered or bottled for a fortnight and compare rather than arguing about it. In my experience it's rarely the water and almost always the thermometer.

Heating schedule, hot water timer, lower wash temperature, draught proof the two worst doors. Everything else is hobby.

I carry a compact hand grinder and the honest numbers are that it adds a few hundred grams, roughly the weight of a small water bottle, and about ninety seconds of work per brew. That is nothing on a three day trip and it matters on a long thru hike. What sold me was not freshness, it was that beans survive being crushed in a pack and pre ground coffee turns into a compacted brick that brews unevenly.

In rough order of how much of my recurring spend each one takes: replacing lost colonies, then jars and labels, then feed, then treatments, then woodenware. That order surprises people because they budget carefully for treatments, which are genuinely cheap per hive, and not at all for the fact that a dead colony in February means buying bees in April at whatever the going rate is that season.

Good. Next thing to check is phase: flip the polarity on the kick and see which way sounds fuller with the bass. Takes two seconds and sometimes it's the whole fix.

Decide which one owns the sub before you touch an EQ. You can't have two sources in the bottom two octaves and expect definition, one of them has to be the weight and the other has to be the attack.

If the kick owns it: high-pass the bass around 50-60Hz with a fairly steep slope, and get the bass's presence from harmonics around 700Hz-2kHz - a little saturation there makes bass audible on small speakers without adding any actual sub.

If the bass owns it: keep the kick short, let it live from about 80Hz up with a clicky 3-5kHz component, and stop trying to make it feel huge in isolation.

The reason your carving didn't work is that you were cutting the same region from both, so nothing filled it.

Also add weighted negatives once a week. Step up, take 5-8 seconds to lower, repeat for 4-5 singles. You can handle far more load eccentrically than concentrically and it builds the top-end strength that unsticks a low max.

5-8 is plenty. Past that you're mostly training a grip and boredom tolerance, and the recovery cost goes up sharply.

Consistent one-direction drift is almost always an alignment issue, not a strength one. Something in your setup is off-centre and you're just watching gravity do its work.

Things to check, in order:

• hand placement. Film from the front. One hand is probably slightly further forward or wider than the other.
• kick-up. If you always kick with the same leg, you're likely entering with a twist and then correcting mid-hold. Practise kicking to a wall and pausing before the freestanding attempt.
• rib flare and hip alignment. A slight side bend at the waist reads as lean at the hands.

Gripping harder helps because you're fighting it with your fingers, which works for a second or two and then can't. That's a symptom that confirms the diagnosis.

There it is. Mark two spots on the floor with chalk or tape and set your hands on them deliberately every rep for the next few weeks until it stops feeling like a conscious act.

Then pad it. Also listen to the loudest phrase on headphones with the fader up loud: analogue clipping on a vocal is usually audible as a hard edge on the peaks once you know what to listen for.