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Is a muslin supposed to look this bad or did I cut the wrong size

Second issue: calico is stiff and has no drape, so if your final fabric is a rayon or a soft viscose, the toile is telling you about a garment you are not making. Wrinkles that would fall out in a drapey fabric stand up and shout in calico. Use something of a similar weight and hand where you can, even an old bedsheet or a charity shop curtain.

128 · in/sewing-fit ·

Turning a three by two metre patch of lawn into a first kitchen garden, where would you spend the first 150

My first year I bought fourteen seed packets because they were cheap, sowed everything, and ate almost nothing except courgettes and a heroic amount of chard. Three by two metres is small. Pick five things you actually cook with, buy plug plants for the slow ones like tomatoes rather than seed, and put the salad somewhere you walk past daily so you remember to cut it.

75 · in/kitchen-garden ·

Neckline gapes about 2cm on every woven bodice I make

If it is happening on every pattern regardless of style, check whether you have a hollow chest or forward shoulders, because both produce a neckline that stands away and both get misdiagnosed as a bust issue.

Quick test: stand normally against a wall with your heels a couple of centimetres out. If there is a noticeable hollow between your collarbones and the wall when your shoulders touch, you need a hollow chest adjustment, which is a small horizontal tuck across the upper chest area of the pattern, typically 6mm to 1.5cm. If your shoulder seams keep sliding backward toward your spine as you wear things, that is forward shoulder and needs the shoulder seam moved rather than the neckline changed.

121 · in/sewing-fit ·

Everything in my product feels core - how did you decide what goes behind the top tier?

Stop gating features and start gating scale. Pick the thing that grows as the customer gets more value out of you, and let the tiers be amounts of that thing rather than lists of capabilities.

For my tool it is projects and connected accounts. Everyone gets every feature. The 19 plan is a freelancer's volume, the 49 is a small team's, the 99 is an agency's. Nobody has ever been annoyed at hitting a limit that exists because their business grew, and everybody is annoyed at a padlock next to a button.

The side effect is that upgrades happen without a sales conversation, because the customer upgrades when they are already succeeding.

217 · in/pricing-tiers ·

Diagonal drag lines from hip to waist on the back of my trousers

Drag lines point at what is tight. Yours run toward the centre back and there is pooling underneath, which is the classic signature of a back crotch curve that is too short and too shallow, so a full seat adjustment plus extra back rise.

On the pattern: draw a horizontal line across the back leg piece from the crotch point to the side seam, and a vertical line from the waist down through it. Slash and spread the horizontal line by 1.5 to 2.5cm at the centre back, tapering to nothing at the side seam, which lengthens and deepens the curve. Then add the same amount at the centre back waist and blend to nothing at the side, which is what stops the waistband dropping when you sit.

Do it in 1cm steps and re toile. This adjustment overshoots easily and then you get bagging, which looks similar and is more annoying to diagnose.

176 · in/sewing-fit ·