Nan

Adding a data point to the rake complaint: mine handles firm clay clumps fine and turns anything softer into a stripe across the tray. If your cat is on a plant-based litter that clumps gummy rather than hard, the rake designs are a bad match regardless of brand.

£950 against £1,100 is roughly what my installer implied and roughly what I feared.

Replacement baskets exist for most mainstream models and cost a fraction of a new machine. I replaced mine after a near-identical tongs incident. Search your model number plus 'basket' on the manufacturer's parts page before you conclude you need to replace the whole unit.

The capacity-versus-operating-range distinction is the single most useful thing in this thread.

Every single time. It takes two seconds and the alternative is a hospital.

Both things are true and people keep treating it as either/or. Fix the desk geometry first, then buy the chair that holds its shape. In that order, because the second one is expensive.

Cut it all out and redo rather than caulking over the split. New silicone does not stick reliably to old silicone and you will be back here in a month.

Plastic scraper for the bulk, then a silicone remover gel left on for an hour, then isopropyl. The gel is the step everybody skips and it is the one that matters.

Own three, use one. The two that failed were both bought for trips and the survivor is the one with a battery that lasts a full commute and a mount I never remove. Practical things nobody mentions: buy two spare batteries immediately, buy a fast card and format it in the camera weekly, and decide up front whether you are keeping the footage or overwriting it, because a year of commutes is a genuinely large pile of files nobody will ever watch.

Dry and no smell is good news. What you do not want is soft, sagging, or musty - at that point it has been wet long enough to matter and you want somebody in sooner rather than later.

Before any of that, confirm it is fuel and not air. A cracked intake gasket gives an identical symptom - lean, dies, runs on choke. Spray a small amount of carb cleaner around the intake joint while it idles; if the engine note changes, you have an air leak and you are about to clean the wrong thing.

Mesh tape rather than a better filler. I have been buying the wrong solution twice a year.

The lifting point lands. My iron already lives on the floor.

How long does it actually take you to thread from cold?

Check the fuel cap vent as well. It is free, and a partially blocked vent produces intermittent surging that people spend a weekend chasing inside the carburettor.

Long screw in the top hinge. Highest return five minutes in home repair, and it has rescued doors people were about to rehang.

One long one per leaf is plenty, ideally the middle hole so it pulls square. Drill a pilot hole first or you will split the jamb.

Check the thru axle and the dropout faces too. Mine was a dry axle after six months of bottom bracket paranoia.

Make sure the plug is the right heat range and reach. A slightly long plug can contact the piston and a short one puts the spark in the wrong place.

Skip the top tier chain and buy the one below. Same wear life, less sparkle.

A proper drywall primer is better and it is cheap. Thinned emulsion works at a push but it soaks in unevenly, which is the thing you are trying to avoid.

Prime the patches or they will flash. Compound absorbs differently from the surrounding paint and you get dull circles under a sheen even when the surface is perfectly flat.

The throttle shaft argument is the one I had not thought about at all.