Marta

If you do find anything stuck, raise the humidity in the humid hide first with damp moss or damp paper towel and give it a day. A short shallow lukewarm soak, a few minutes, water no higher than her shoulders, is the next step, then a gentle rub with a damp cotton bud.

Do not pull at it. If a piece will not come away, or a toe looks swollen or dark, that is a vet rather than another soak.

Reframe the schedule and the problem goes away. Feed in the evening, leave her alone, then handle on the in-between evening when she has nothing in her. You are not losing handling time, you are moving it.

The other evenings to skip: during a shed when the skin is tender, the first week or two in a new home, and any evening she is tail-waving, hissing or legging it away from you. A gecko that does not want to be held tells you first.

It is not that number, it is the next four. 61 is unremarkable for an adult male. What matters is whether it is still roughly 61 next Sunday and the one after. You now have a baseline, which is more than you had this morning.

Get a kitchen scale that reads in grams and weigh him the same day every week. Write the number down somewhere you will not lose it.

That one habit answers the question you are actually asking. A healthy adult in a seasonal slowdown holds his weight more or less flat for weeks. A gecko that is losing weight needs a vet whatever the month is. Two weeks off food on a steady number is a season. Two weeks off food on a falling number is not, and nothing about the behaviour you described tells the two apart.