Before spending anything, try one night with the bedroom door open and one with it shut, everything else identical. If the peak disappears with the door open, the answer is air changes and the fix is ventilation rather than filtration.
Lou
@leaf_litter_lou
Collects and sterilizes his own leaf litter every autumn and stores it like firewood.
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Agreed, and cat grass is also the cheapest experiment in this thread. It costs almost nothing and tells you within two weeks whether you have a chewer or a bored cat.
Rough grouping that has served me for years with three cats. The big irritant family - pothos, philodendron, monstera, peace lily, dieffenbachia - all contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, which cause immediate mouth pain, drooling and sometimes vomiting, and are miserable rather than usually life-threatening. The genuine emergency for cats is true lilies, the Lilium and Hemerocallis kinds sold in bouquets, where even pollen or vase water can cause kidney failure and there is no wait and see - that is an immediate vet call. Spider plants are not toxic, which is why yours is the one being eaten most enthusiastically. None of this is veterinary advice: keep your vet's number and your country's animal poison line somewhere you can find them at 11pm, and if she is drooling heavily, unsteady or off her food, ring rather than search.
Fair, and I would rather have it said plainly than danced around. I think my honest answer is two pullets and accept that I keep six birds and get four eggs a day at best.
The thinning itself isn't a death signal, it's enzymes. Whole grains bring a lot of amylase and protease along with them, and in an acidic environment the protease chews through the gluten network that was giving your mixture body. So a starter that goes from thick paste to pourable is often just doing chemistry rather than dying. It thickens back up once the yeast population builds and starts producing gas fast enough to hold structure.
Cooler brewing also shifts the balance towards the yeast side, so you get more fizz and less clean acidity. Not a problem, just different.
Rough shape for a commuter kit bought new at mid-range brands: jacket 180 to 300, trousers 120 to 250, gloves 60 to 110, boots 110 to 200. So somewhere around 500 to 800 before you have thought about a summer mesh option, and there is no need to buy it all in one month. Boots and gloves first, because those are the parts that hit the ground on a low speed commute drop and they are the cheapest things on the list.
There is one case where I would pay without hesitation: if you are in or heading for a dispute with a landlord, a builder or an insurer. Then you are not buying information, you are buying a dated document from a named professional, and that is worth real money. For your own curiosity in your own flat, it is not.
The mechanically useful part of a scrub, in my experience, is not the grit. It's that using one forces you to actually work the product into the scalp with your fingertips for two minutes instead of foaming up the lengths and rinsing.
I tested that by keeping the massage and dropping the scrub, same result, and my regular shampoo was suddenly better at everything. Most people are washing their hair and calling it washing their scalp.
Politely disagreeing with the top answer, because I think the species is the wrong variable here. Your problem is that the ground holds water for four months, and ducks on saturated clay will give you a bog with birds standing in it. I would fix the ground first: lift the run, put down a geotextile membrane and 100mm of angular gravel, then hens on deep litter over the top. That is where your 400 should go, and it works for whichever bird you end up with.
Two weeks is a normal ask for a hardy plant and a big ask for a calathea, which is close to the worst traveller in the common houseplant range - they resent dry roots, cold, and being in the dark, and nine days is all three. Photograph everything today, in daylight, including the box and the label, and send the photos now rather than in two weeks, because that protects you either way. Then water it, put it somewhere bright but not sunny, and do nothing else. No repotting, no feeding, no cutting anything off that is still green.
Exactly this. The only time I repot on arrival is if the roots are sitting in something waterlogged and sour, and even then I do the minimum and keep the same root ball intact.
The submerged rule is doing all the work here. Any shred that floats up and dries out becomes the launchpad for actual mould, and a glass weight always leaves a gap round the edge. A folded outer cabbage leaf under the weight fixes that for free.
Same experience, though it took my two slowest birds about three weeks to learn the treadle. Prop it open for the first fortnight or you will find one hen has quietly stopped eating.
Sour and swampy is anaerobic substrate, sweet and rotten is something dead. What you are describing is the substrate going airless because it is compacted and permanently wet, not a corpse. Lift the hide and the water bowl first to rule out the easy thing, then fix the water balance rather than digging the tank out.
One overlooked reason to see bags in person: dimensions on paper are close to meaningless for whether something fits a sizer. Two 40 litre bags can be very different shapes, and the one with a curved top is the one that gets waved through.
Fair, though at forty or fifty accounts the segments get too small to compare. Worth doing as soon as any single source produces enough people to look at on its own.
Houseplants of this kind do not age out on a six year timer - what they do is slowly run down the three things they were given for free at the nursery: root room, light and hard feeding. Yours was grown in a greenhouse under light levels your east window does not approach, pushed with fertiliser, and shipped at its absolute peak, which is why nothing you ever do at home matches day one. Four leaves a year in a pot it has been in for six years is a plant in maintenance mode, not a dying one. Repot up one size, cut it back hard in spring, and give it the brightest spot you have.
Cutting in spring is the part that makes this safe. The same cut in November gives you a stick and a long wait.
The insulation argument is overstated and the stealth one is not. In a supermarket car park at 11pm a panel van is furniture and a windowed van with curtains is a van somebody is sleeping in. Whether that matters depends entirely on where you park, and if you are mostly on campsites and quiet lanes it does not matter at all.
Applying half doesn't give you half is the fact that settles it. Going with the cheap one.
Boxing is genuinely the professional answer for a lot of family volumes. Half the damage on books like this comes from being stored spine-up leaning against something.
Fridge only, for me and two friends who know what it is. That answers it.
Both is possible too, a bit of purging on your chin plus irritation elsewhere. Which is why the stop-and-restart test beats trying to reason it out from the pattern.
Offcut smells of essentially nothing, so it's the glue. Useful test.