Finn

I bought a drum first because I wanted to do it properly, and I used it about eleven times. The roasting was fine, the problem was that every session was a forty minute commitment including cool down and cleaning, and I have a job. The person I sold it to roasts every Sunday for the month and loves it. Be honest about which of those two people you are.

So compromised running is the whole game. How often would you do that kind of session in sixteen weeks?

I think the vessel is being blamed for a technique problem. Cheeks have plenty of collagen, so if you reduce the finished liquid properly you get gloss from gelatin regardless of where the cooking happened. My routine is sear hard in a pan, deglaze that pan with wine and scrape everything into the cooker, then at the end lift the meat out and reduce the liquid on the hob until it coats a spoon. Side by side against my oven version, my family cannot pick the cooker one out.

Frequent flipping is the underrated half of this. Every flip lets the just seared side dump heat to the air instead of driving it inward.

The mapping tool is not automatically the honest one either. If you drew the route by clicking along the centre of the path, you measured a line nobody runs, and every corner you cut or curve you swing wide on is real distance the map never counted. Two of my local loops measure short on the map for that reason alone.

Fair, and I think we agree on the shape. The trigger to leave should be can I make anything appear on screen, not have I reached the end of the playlist.

Build, but do not abandon the course, demote it to a reference. The retention problem you describe is exactly what happens when input is not followed by recall, and an hour a day is plenty to build if none of it is spent watching.

Concretely, I would spend the next two weeks making one small thing end to end, something like a page that takes a form input, stores it, and lists it back. When you hit a wall, jump to the relevant course section, watch eight minutes, come back. You will finish the course anyway, just out of order and with a reason to remember each piece.

Where the money genuinely goes is the label nobody reads. Look for the CE label sewn inside, which will say AAA, AA or A for the garment, and check the armour separately for Level 1 or Level 2. Plenty of cheaper jackets are A rated with Level 1 armour and are not lying about anything, they are just less abrasion resistant than the AA one next to them. Also check whether a back protector is included, because it is very often an empty pocket and another 40 quid.

It is a comfort pad. If there is no CE mark and a level on it, it is there to stop the seams digging in. Replacing it is one of the cheapest real upgrades you can make.

Short version: get the well log, get a baseline sample, ask the health department directly rather than the installer, and put the lids where a truck can reach them. Fifty five feet with good casing is not the thing that will bite you.

Adding that the block steel is usually the cheapest ribbed one they could include, and on a soft Victorinox it is quite aggressive.

Also check your circulator against an independent thermometer. Mine read 145F and was actually running at 152F, which would produce exactly the texture you describe. Ten dollar probe, five minute test, worth doing once for every unit you own.

I ruined the edges on two decent knives by treating the rod as a sharpener. Fast strokes, lots of pressure, terrible angle control because I was doing the flourish thing from cooking programmes. What I was actually doing was rolling the apex hard over one way and then hard over the other, so the edge was a wavy mess that no amount of rodding would fix and I had to grind past all of it on a stone later. Light pressure, slow, five strokes a side, and think about the angle rather than the noise.

Two degrees plus four hours together would do it. They stack.

Slight correction to the low heat advice you will see everywhere. Many outer finishes reactivate with warmth, so a short tumble on low or twenty minutes with a hairdryer at a distance often restores beading without any reproofing product at all. Check the care label first because a laminated shell and a bonded one behave differently, but do not skip straight to buying a bottle of anything.

And the corollary that bit me later: def f(items=[]) creates that list once at definition time, so it accumulates across calls. Use None and build inside the function.

First attempt I used the paper dry on bare glass with no adhesive and it slid, bunched under the blade and I put a lovely convex round on the front third of a knife. Took me a long session on a proper stone to grind that back out. Water film under the paper, or tape all four edges, and it behaves.

You are giving up abrasion resistance, which is the half of the job the armour does not do. The garment standard has a class specifically for base layers worn as part of an outfit, and that class requires impact protectors but no abrasion performance at all. Armour handles the impact, the outer fabric handles the eight metres you slide afterwards, and a work shirt handles neither.

Correct, and that is genuinely how they are meant to be used. The marketing photos of one worn under a denim jacket are doing a lot of quiet damage.

Composition and the unit circle are the two that make chain rule week miserable if they are shaky. Everything else you can look up mid problem.

And once you notice it you can't stop. Almost every 'proven to reduce breakage by 73%' number comes from a swatch on a machine.

Feeding my in laws, so pot roast texture it is. Confusing guests is exactly what I am trying to avoid.

Towel under the container is a nice touch, mine sits on a hollow worktop that acts like a drum.

Also do not add butter or garlic to the bag on your first few cooks. Garlic in particular goes strangely harsh over a long low cook, and people then blame the method. Aromatics belong in the finishing pan.